We just got back from our annual December trip to Washington, DC to visit my parents. Washington is, among many other things, a fantastic food city. Our visit provided an opportunity to sample a couple of the newer restaurants in the neighborhood, representing different corners of the Asian continent.
Until fairly recently, 1847 Columbia Road NW was home to Napoleon Bistro, an excellent continental cuisine spot. Then one day, the doors closed and practically overnight, the place was reinvented as
Lapis, specializing in Afghani food. Turnover in the restaurant business is expected but this conversion was unusual for the fact that ownership remained the same. The family, which fled Afghanistan after the Soviets invaded, operates several European style restaurants in the city. Lapis is their first venture featuring their own native cuisine.
The place has quickly become one of my parents' favorites so they were eager to share with us. The dishes look familiar to anyone who knows Middle Eastern cuisine but the flavor profile inches to the east. Aushak, Afghan dumplings, were a big hit at our table and the mixed grill provided a great opportunity to sample entrees. I would definitely go again, probably sampling the appetizers next time.
Korean food has long been a favorite of mine. There was a great place in my neighborhood in Yokohama back in the '90s. Not only was the meal itself wonderful but the barbecue and garlic smell would get in your clothing and be with you for the rest of the evening. Heaven! Despite the overall popularity of Asian food in the States, Korean places are rare. Even Korean-owned establishments tend to stick to the safer ground of Japanese or Chinese offerings.
So, when my father asked if there were any cuisines we'd been craving and I saw the listing for
BUL in the latest
Lonely Planet, I jumped at the chance. While barbecue at the table wasn't an option, the magic pouring out of the kitchen was deeply satisfying. DC Kalbi Ssam (short ribs) and K-Pork Fried Rice were our best orders. I only stopped eating because I ran out of steam. BUL is the sort of restaurant I imagine visiting over and over, trying something new each time.
Both restaurants were crowded, even early in the evening, a good sign for long-term success.
I'm with you on Korean cooking. There were a few traditional Korean places in the Bay Area that I've eaten at where they serve traditional style, but sharing condement bowls isn't something that Americans get excited over. I'd enjoy trying the Afghani resturant. Like you, I just got back from a visit to my parents.
ReplyDeleteMaybe it's the shared condiments, otherwise I can think of no good reason why Korean food shouldn't be more popular. Lack of familiarity, sure, but the same was true of Thai food 30 years ago.
DeleteI love Korean food. Grilling at the table (thick slices of pork belly or tongue) is wonderful and all the side dishes that come with it.
ReplyDeleteWe have gone so often that we are regulars and always get extra side dishes. They also have great Japanese .
I have not had Afghani food yet.
cheers, parsnip and thehamish
Grilling at the table is great fun - primal and yummy. What's not to love?
DeleteThese places sound good! I wonder if the first restaurant decided to "educate" the people through food showcasing how good their food is and to try to stop all the negative talk. People do have a tendency to place people from other countries into one big pot sort of speak
ReplyDeleteMaybe. The restaurant business is a risky place for mere political statements, though. The DC area has had successful Afghan restaurants in the past.
DeleteMy guess is that they saw the opportunity to try something different in a competitive neighborhood. I hope they succeed.
I've only eaten at Korean places once or twice. Vietnamese is the thing my wife and I have been trying out recently.
ReplyDeleteSt. Paul, Minnesota was overflowing with Vietnamese restaurants when I lived there in the mid-'90s. Probably still is. I'm not as keen on the places in our area, despite the fact that Burlington has a well-established Vietnamese community.
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