On the Road: Montreal 2026

My wife and I went to Montreal for a few days last week to celebrate our wedding anniversary.  As we did last year, we stayed in Vieux-Montreal (Old Montreal), not far from the Basilica.  Our approach was different this year from previous trips.  All of the sights and restaurants we visited were within walking distance of the hotel - didn't take a subway or a cab anywhere.  And while we did do some sightseeing, we also spent significant time relaxing in either a bar or our room with a World Cup game on.  I suggested it was because we're getting older.  My wife thinks it's more that our relationship with Montreal has changed.  Whichever it is, the change is a pleasant one.  I've long believed the ideal vacation is one where you can feel happy doing things or doing nothing.  Mission accomplished.

A couple of our most enjoyable spots...

Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bons-Secours (Our Lady of Good Help), a sailors' chapel dating back to 1771:

PHI, a multi-building art museum.  In addition to the visual art, we also enjoyed a listening room experience featuring John Coltrane's masterpiece, A Love Supreme.  From Paula Pivi's exhibition, Come check it out. Lies lies lies:

We also visited the Château Ramezay, an old governor's mansion which has become a private museum telling the story of the city's history... from a deeply white perspective.  In fact, when we got home, we told the kid where we'd gone with the "deeply white" description and they knew the place exactly.  They'd gone once on a field trip.  

As an example, I provide the following caption excerpt:

With the same initiative as the merchants, missionaries arrived in Canada with the earliest settlers.  They mastered the native languages and recorded the native traditions that they aimed to modify.  The "Black Robes" settled among the Hurons in 1634 where they strove to integrate the Amerindians into the French and Catholic culture.  Some native groups reacted adversely and several missionaries were martyred.

Word choice matters.  Martyred.  It's pretty obvious who the sympathetic protagonists are in this particular telling of the tale.

Let's be clear.  Indigenous people have always been correct to push back against European encroachment.  The end result was genocide.  As for the Huron mentioned above, two thirds of the population were wiped out by European diseases.  And that was just the beginning.

It's time for a new telling of North American history.  Or rather, the story has been told over and over again.  White people need to start listening more and believing more.

Yes, I know the MAGA fuckers have pushed hard against such "woke" thinking and the effort to bury our nation's darker truths has, unfortunately, been largely successful recently.  But that's all delusional bullshit.

Fact: the nation we call the United States of America was built on genocide - multiple genocides, African and indigenous.  You can "believe" otherwise all you want but it doesn't change reality.  Is it too late to change the past?  Yes.  But it's not too late to build a better future and that starts with acknowledging the harm done, both past AND present.  Canada has done a better job in recent years than we have but as Château Ramezay demonstrates, there's still a lot of work to do - and undo.

My thinking about such matters may have an impact on travels moving forward.  Stay tuned.

Overall, our Montreal visit was very nice.  We'll be back, I'm sure, though our increased comfort and familiarity have me wondering if it's time to explore someplace new.  Ottawa isn't far...