Once upon a time in a college music class - over 30 years ago now - a classmate brought photo slides to share from her study abroad travels in Spain. This marvelous woman - whose name I have long forgotten - provided my first glimpses of the Alhambra and the Mezquita, magnificent architectural relics of Spain's Muslim past. Ever since that day, visiting Andalusia has been at or near the top of my travel wish list. For my wife, it's probably been longer. This last week, we finally made it happen.
Granada
Granada is home to the Alhambra, a palace/fortress complex dating back to the 13th century, occupied for 254 years by the Nasrid emirs. A UNESCO world heritage site, the Alhambra is regarded by many as the most beautiful building - more accurately a collection of buildings - in the world. Oddly enough, given this reputation, it's not much to look at from the outside. The magic is within: magnificent arches, serene courtyards, exquisite gardens, beautifully intricate carvings on practically every wall. The carvings alone must have taken masters decades to complete. How could anyone make stone look so light and feathery? There are sights to take your breath away around every corner.
The miracle is that the Alhambra has survived at all. In 1492, when he knew he had lost, Emir Muhammed XII surrendered to Christian forces with the agreement that the complex would be preserved. Amazingly, the pact has been respected for over half a millennium. Even the Inquisitors, as ruthless zealots as the world has ever known, couldn't bear to destroy something so beautiful.
Overall, we enjoyed Granada. Beyond the main attraction, exploring the Albaicin, the city's old Muslim district, is highly gratifying - and hilly. I'd go back. I'd love to do the night tour of the Alhambra, plus there's a cathedral which we only had the time to appreciate from the outside.
Cordoba
Mezquita is the Spanish word for mosque. The building in Cordoba known colloquially as the Mezquita is more accurately termed The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba. It is both, you see. The mosque was built first, in 785. The Catholics took over 500 years later and, once again, could not bring themselves to destroy the most beautiful building in the city. Instead, they built their cathedral inside of it.
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| In both the Alhambra and the Mezquita, it's important to look up. A lot of the best work is above you. |
In general, Andalusia suffers a bit from interior decoration overkill. Even a hotel room is not spared. Blank space on a wall is obviously frowned upon, sure to be covered as quickly as possible by a painting, a hanging plant, a mirror, whatever. And it seemingly began with the Alhambra. Good luck finding a wall without decorative tiling or carved calligraphy all over it. But at the Mezquita, you see the Muslims had nothing on the Catholics. Every alcove has been filled with its own garishly adorned chapel. I quickly came to appreciate the simpler, less representative, endlessly repeating Islamic aesthetic.
For me, the Mezquita was less impressive than the Alhambra but once again, one appreciates the miracle that it has survived at all, especially in its bizarre religious turducken arrangement.
Cordoba was more easily explored than Granada for the simple reason that the former is flat whereas the latter is brutally hilly. Cordoba has also done a better job of preserving its Jewish heritage so one gets a sense of how all three religions once coexisted in relative harmony there. Before the zealots ruined everything.
Yes, folks, there's a historical lesson on display we all should be heeding right about now.
The Cordoba highlight for me was the flamenco show we went to at Tablao Flamenco El Cardenal our first night. At first, it seemed such a cheesy, touristy thing to do but truly, the performance was amazing. I was particularly impressed by the seemingly effortless virtuosity of the guitarist.
Casablanca
Our best flight option for the trip was with Royal Air Maroc, connecting through Casablanca. As such, it was only by chance that Morocco's largest city became part of our itinerary. Why not extend what was already a long layover into a two-night stay? We've never been before. We can add Africa to our continent life lists. Never mind the fact that if we had more time, we'd go to Marrakesh, Fes or Tangier, one of the more popular tourist destinations. Casablanca is where the plane lands. Let's make the most of it.
Wouldn't you know, the impulsive add-on would be the highlight of our adventure. We enjoyed Spain. We fell in love with Morocco.
Maybe it was just nice after Granada and Cordoba to be in a city not overrun by tourists. No obligations on the sightseeing docket. Instead, wander through the medina, sit at a cafe, haggle with merchants, watch the world go by. Absorb. To be honest, I find sightseeing to be overrated because all you see is other travelers. The more meaningful experience is watching local people going about their daily lives: walking their kids to school, complaining about their boss, laughing with their friends. For all of that, Casablanca was ideal.
But it runs deeper. Casablanca was often uncomfortable - the healthy sort of uncomfortable you want to lean into for a while. Learn the language. Find your own favorite cafe, make friends, get a seat at the card table. Pick a local football team to support. Immerse yourself in all of the new experiences that are routine for everyone around you. Embrace your own otherness. Then leave the instant any of it starts to feel normal. A visit measured in years rather than hotel nights.
It's been a long time since I've felt that way about a place.
Casablanca is simultaneously the edge of the Muslim world, the Arab world and the African world. Exciting experiences extend for thousands of miles in multiple directions. I hope we'll make it back someday.
Bonus photos...
Cats
Stray cats and cat images are prevalent in all three cities. This, too, is a link to Islamic heritage. The Prophet Muhammad himself was a cat lover and as such, the animal is highly revered.
Food
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| Granada means pomegranate in Spanish. Representations of the fruit pop up all over the city, including at the Alhambra. |
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