Monday, January 19, 2015

On the Coffee Table: Harold McGee

Title: On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen
Author: Harold McGee
via Wikipedia
First published in 1984, On Food and Cooking is exactly as its subtitle advertises, a 360 degree view of darn near everything edible.  The first chapter - on milk, a mammal's first food - sets the template for the rest of the book: begin with the historical and cultural context of a food, then dissect it down to the molecular level.  I made the decision early on that I was not going to be able to read this impressive work cover-to-cover but I still managed to learn plenty.

This particular read coincides with a sad event in my life.  My favorite high school science teacher passed away in December.  I had him for both biology and chemistry, the two predominant sciences covered in McGee's book.  Mr. B was one of the most popular teachers in the school.  Also on the coaching staff of the school's extraordinarily successful field hockey program, he touched thousands of lives over several decades. 

Despite his best efforts, even Mr. B couldn't turn me on to science.  As soon as McGee's text started heading towards the lab, I'd skip ahead to the next section.  I made honest attempts.  In theory, I was fascinated by the fact that meringues are best whipped in a copper bowl for genuine chemical reasons but after reading the section, I couldn't remember any of it.  Such was my experience for four years of high school science.  I'm so sorry, Mr. B.  I know you tried.

And yet, I did manage to learn.  Figs, for instance, are pollinated not by bees or birds but by a particular eighth-inch long species of wasp.  You can't even cultivate figs unless you tie wasp nests to the trees.  One of my favorite chapters was the one on alcohol: Wine, Beer and Distilled Liquors.  I have some modest experience making beer but really, the chapter made me want to experiment with cocktails.  Fortunately, McGee also provides gory details of the terrible things drunkenness does to the mind and body.  Everything in moderation, folks...

I had a bit of a dilemma when it came to my Goodreads rating for On Food and Cooking.  My Goodreads recommendations have been quite satisfying so this is not a matter I take lightly.  On the one hand, I don't really want more foodie books that are so heavy on the "science" but the "lore" parts of the text were amazing.  Even the material that wasn't so interesting to me personally was thoroughly researched and well written.  I may well refer back to some of those sections as I get deeper into my own cooking adventures.  So, a 3 seemed reasonable.

16 comments:

  1. This doesn't sound like a book I will be picking up any times soon....not a science person either. I did, however, also have a great science teacher who was also one of our class sponsors. We still adore him, and he comes to some of our class reunions (every three years). His wife died several years ago, and he now has a new love. So happy for him./

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    1. Mr. B's son is a good friend of mine, which is how I learned of his passing. I know from his experience that being the child of a popular teacher is not always easy but there are perks, too. The loss has hit a lot of people hard.

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  2. I probably couldn't read such a book cover to cover either but it does sound like it has some interesting information.

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  3. This is the kind of book I'd leave on the shelf, then binge read sections, followed by a trip back to the shelf. But, hey - that is why I have the shelf!

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    1. That's probably what I'll do, too. I think if someone were as interested in organic chemistry as I am in history and culture, it could be read straight through.

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  4. Never think too much as cooking as a science though more than once something I've cooked ends up looking like a science project.

    Lee
    Tossing It Out

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    1. I know the feeling, Lee. My wife creates art. I make an edible mess.

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  5. My neighbor in Laguna Beach had a fig tree and I don't remember him tie wasp nests in his tree. But I do remember having to net the tree to keep the birds from eating all the fruit.
    I want my cookbooks to have lots of big photos and little amount of type !
    I am a barbarian !

    cheers, parsnip

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    1. I don't think I've ever seen a fig tree.

      Poking around just now, I found an article entitled "The Weird Sex Life of the Fig" that explains it all: http://figs4fun.com/Links/FigLink006a.pdf.

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    2. They are very pretty but way too much work. And he had only one.
      Maybe he did tie the wasps to the tree I just remember the nets that had to be put up.

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    3. It is the Smyrna fig that requires the wasp eggs and the technique is very old, going back to Ancient Greece.

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  6. How did you come to read this in the first place?

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    1. After I finished Heat last summer, I asked my wife for more food book recommendations. She gave me a stack of three to start. This was one. Consider the Oyster was another. There's one more I'll share here at some point.

      I love learning about food. At this point, I have more patience for the history and culture than I do for the biology and chemistry. That may change the more I cook.

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    2. Especially all the international cuisine, right?

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    3. Sure. And baking, in particular, is certainly organic chemistry in action.

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